Depths table in 5.09 is on page 253. At the bottom of the table is a description of damage from pressure.
On the Watercraft and Enhancers table, the column titles "Armor" has the armor values (AV)
Armor values for subs are:
- Sub Type has Armor 20 as a base, 100 tons, 1,000 KCr
- Patrol mission gives x2 armor = 40
- VHeavy build gives x3 armor = 120, 300 tons, 9,000KCr
- Advanced design +20 armor = 140, -2 tons, 9,040KCr
- Alt Armored gives +60 armor = 200, +2 tons, 9,090KCr
That's as much armor as we can add. Unless you can add more armor by adding Alt Armored twice or more. But the rules are unclear on that subject.
Even with my suggestion to increase the base armor on submarines to 30 still won't allow Armor 300.
Thanks, Tjoneslo, I was starting to get the idea that was the case, but the added tonnage makes no sense at all for the Advanced and Alt Armor if you are talking about the pressure hull of a submarine. That is why I was not seeing it.
Back on page 640, there are the Armor equivalents for a variety of materials. An Armor of 20 for the sub with a Steel Hull would equate to a thickness of just under 3 millimeters of steel plate.
20 ÷ 70 X 10 millimeters = 2.86 millimeters of steel plate.
That, to put it simply, is totally ridiculous.
NO, repeat
NO, repeat
NO sub is going to have a hull thickness of less 3 millimeters of steel. So, to begin with, throw that value out, and add the Armor values on page 640 to the discard without regret pile, and simply state, here is the hull thickness required to reach a given depth.
To reach a depth of 150 meters, and do not worry about hull damage, as this will be half of probable crush depth, your submarine needs a hull thickness of 0.875 inches or approximately 2.25 centimeters of high-tensile strength steel, either the vanadium alloy used in World War 2 or HY-65, and to be really safe, you could use HY-80 steel. Now, that is going to cost more than standard steel, for HY-65 you might get away with an extra 50% to cost. For HY-80, and allowing for the X-Raying of all welds, cost should go up by at least a factor of 3, but that would give you a really big safety factor. The vanadium alloy used in World War 2 was not significantly more expensive than the high-tensile strength steel that it replaced.
The reason that I say you need to toss the Armor Values and limits in Vehicle Maker is actual Armor thicknesses used.
Armor Thickness on front superstructure of German WW2 JagdTiger self-propelled anti-tank gun was 250 millimeters. So 25 centimeters X 70 (the armor value of 1 centimeter of steel) equals an Armor Value of 1750. That Armor value might be higher, as that may have been Face-Hardened Plate, which would add about 15% to the Armor value.
The Armor Thickness on the front plate of the British Churchill World War 2 Infantry Tank was 6 inches or 152 millimeters. That comes out to 1064 for Armor Value.
The Armor Thickness on the HMS Inflexible of 1880 was a sandwich of 24 inches of Wrought Iron Armor and 16 inches of Teak mounted on 1.5 inch Wrought Iron Hull Plating. So 61 centimeters of Armor Plate, 40 centimeters of Teak, and an additional 3.8 centimeters of hull plating formed the Belt Armor on the Ship. Multiplied out, 3050 for the Wrought Iron Plating, 160 for the Teak, and 190 for the hull plating adds up to an Armor Value of 3400.
Given that the Tank in Vehicle Maker starts with an Armor Value of 50, or less than 10 millimeters of Steel, it looks like the best you can do in Vehicle Maker is maybe 300 for Armor Value for the tank, or a thickness of 43 millimeters of plating.
For a ship, you start with an Armor Value for your hull of 10 for a 1000 Traveller dTon or 13,500 water displacement ton ship. That equates to 2 millimeters of Wrought Iron or 1.43 millimeters of Steel. A ship with that thickness of hull plating might not survive being built, and definitely will break up when launched, once you add the weight of the propulsion system. It looks like if you put everything on in additional armor that you can, you can get up to 180 for an Armor Value. That would give you a hull thickness of 36 millimeters of Wrought Iron Plate, or 25.7 millimeters of Steel Plate. Your ship will now not break up, and if properly framed and designed, should survive a North Atlantic Winter. It is by no stretch of the imagination an Armored Vessel, but one that meets current building standards for a commercial cargo ship.
One final comment on wooden ships. Wood is given an Armor Value of 4, so the hull thickness for a wooden ship would be 2.5 centimeters or about one inch of wood. That will work for small boats, like a rowing launch or a whale boat. For a larger, cargo or passenger carrying vessel, it will not work, and most definitely will not work for a 13,500 water displacement ton ship.